What I Ate in Sicily

In all of my previous Sicily posts, I didn’t provide too many specifics about the food in Sicily, because I felt it deserved its own dedicated write up. Sicilian food inspires poetry! Sicilian food has the power to launch humans to space. Sicilian food could finally solve for world peace.

To start, I had every type of arancini (fried rice ball) imaginable - homemade, cheap counter types, mini antipasto, giant lunch rice balls, burro, carne, etc. This dish is so hearty and comforting, I could eat it all the time. But I did learn I like it piping hot and the places that serve it lukewarm are doing a disservice to arancini.

Siciliy was definitely the land of seafood. I had a lobster spaghetti at an osteria in Marsala that was my favorite meal of the entire trip! But cuttlefish with caramelized onions, grilled prawns, fried squid, swordfish steaks, and tagliolini alle vognole (egg noodles with clams) were other faves.

Lobster spaghetti at an osteria in Marsala was my favorite meal of the trip

Pizza and pasta were absolute perfection as well. Cavati alla Norma, eggplant pasta covered in salted ricotta, was a local dish that was so simple and so so so good. I had a pasta covered in sardines and anchovies that made my mind melt. And the pizza crust was unbeatable everywhere. Even the bag of bread restaurants put on your table as a started is world class.

I went to a couple of delis and enjoyed pointing at what I wanted, whether it was a cutlet or salami focaccia. The grilled veggies in all of the deli counters are so much better than I could ever get in the states.

Salami focaccia in Agrigento

Stumbled upon this deli counter in Mazara del Vallo with incredible lasagna and cutlets

Finally, desserts. My god did I crush the dessert game in Sicily. Nonstop gelato and cannoli action, with pistachio brittle and candied orange peels to supplement. I had some creamy lemon cookies I am still dreaming about, and every pastry and croissant I touched was heavenly.

Caramelized fig and cream gelato in Ortigia - I ate this twice!!!

Cassatina (mini marzipan cake) and fig & pear tart in Ortigia

Each hotel I stayed at had a wonderful breakfast spread, and eating plain ricotta with a few toppings grew on me. Yogurt goes down ever so lightly, the local pears that were in season were great, and the eggs taste fresher in Sicily.

Fresh squeezed orange juice was cheap everywhere, as was high quality local wine. And being able to purchase world class espresso for one euro at a gas station never gets old.

Enjoying a limoncello in Ragusa

Cheers at a pizzeria in a tunnel in Ragusa

Italian food is so good because it is simple, but relies on high quality ingredients and techniques. The food doesn’t hide behind a wall of spices - sometimes really good olive oil, salt, and a splash of lemon is perfection.

So go to Sicily and feast! You don’t have to make too many plans or do too much research - just rock up to any local counter with other people there and the food is pretty much guaranteed to be amazing. I didn’t have a bad meal on the entire trip.